Conti's Ristorante



By Peter Gianotti
April 2003
249-11 Northern Blvd. Little Neck, NY 718-428-8800

The Wave of Italian restaurants rushing along this busy stretch of Northern Boulevard crests at Conti’s. Conti’s arrives, new and old at the same time. The warm, friendly spot conveys instant familiarity, in its mood and food. During the holiday rush, it’s a serene outpost. Earlier this year, the address hosted La Tosca, a more modest Italian eatery. But the marinara competition can get pretty intense from Flushing through Great Neck, with all comers braced for a swift kick in the tomatoes. Conti’s should fill a civil little niche, with its mellow earthtones, wood wainscoting, and polite artwork. Basically, nothing interrupts you from concentrating on the food. A half-order of penne alla puttanesca is a good way to start here. The crimson sauce is heady with black olives. Tasty, but on the heavy side are gnocchi in a generous, sage-driven veal sauce that could double as a stew. Pasta e fagioli carries a hue of pale tomato, and it’s a flavorful opener for bean eaters. The minestrone has a similar tint, and ample amount of well-cooked vegetables. Skip the forgettable hot antipasto, a union of over cooked baked clam, and shrimp oreganata, with a couple of bready stuffed mushrooms to round out the group. You’re better off with the tricolor salad or the warm spinach salad. A salad of escarole, tomatoes and red onion also is worth sampling. But forgo the mild, cold Ceasar. The top course at Conti’s is the main one. The house’s grilled veal chop is especially recommended: thick, deftly charred, capped with a flavor-packed combo of onions, red peppers and mushrooms. Just as husky is tender osso buco, definitely ready to fall off the bone with a turn of the fork. Veal alla Sorrentino, sautéed scaloppini layered with eggplant and mozzarella cheese is good of its kind but still a trifle oily. Calf’s liver, with with bacon or all Veneziana with onions, is a savory alternative. A husky, autumn-winter winner is chicken Contadina. This rustic dish brings together moist cuts of chicken on the bone, sausages spiked with fennel, onions and peppers. You’ll consume plenty of bread along the way, too. Red Snapper alla Livornese carries on the tradition, with a vivid, tomato-based sauce. It makes you wish they’d offer the greatest dish from the province of Leghorn, or Livorno, the zesty fish stew called cacciucco. Swordfish oreganata could be a thicker slice, but the fish and the treatment are commendable. Flounder may be prepared the same way. The school of fish on any given evening typically includes tuna and salmon. Cannoli are the essential finales at Conti’s. You may enjoy the more traditional one, which, in a meritorious act of restraint, isn’t too sweet; of one in which the lush cream has a hint of pistachio. As usual, the purist is the happier diner. Bu the green version is all right. There’s a respectable cheesecake and serious rendition of tiramisu, Zabaglione, however, has the texture of pudding. The chocolate-covered ice cream ball dubbed tartufo is what you’d expect. Conti’s isn’t. It’s better. Assessment: Adroit Italian Open: Every day for dinner. Price Range: Main Courses: $13.95 to $24.95; pastas and risotto, $12.95 to $15.95; appetizers, $7.95 to $9.95. Credit Cards: All major cards. Wheelchair Access: Two steps to entrance. Directions: North side, between Marathon Parkway and 249th Street, about one-half mile west of the county line.

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